1. Check the Hallmark
Look for a stamp reading "24K", "18K", "14K", "10K", or a purity number like "585" (14K) or "417" (10K). This is the fastest first check — but a hallmark alone isn't proof, since a fraudulent stamp can be applied to a plated or fake piece just as easily as a genuine one. Treat it as a first data point, not a final answer.
2. The Magnet Test
Real gold is not magnetic. Hold a strong magnet near the item — if it visibly pulls or sticks, the piece contains enough ferrous (iron-based) metal that it isn't solid gold. Passing this test doesn't confirm authenticity on its own (some fakes use non-magnetic base metals like brass), but failing it is a strong sign something's wrong.
3. The Water / Density Test
Fill a glass with water and gently drop the item in. Gold is dense — a genuine piece should sink quickly and directly, not float or drift slowly down. This works best on solid items without other materials (gemstones, hollow chains) that could throw off the density.
4. Skin Discoloration Check
Genuine solid gold generally doesn't cause green or black marks on skin. That kind of discoloration is usually caused by base metals (often copper) in a lower-karat alloy or a plated layer reacting with sweat and skin chemistry — worth investigating further, though it isn't conclusive on its own since a genuine lower-karat gold alloy can still leave marks for some wearers.
5. Professional XRF Testing
X-ray fluorescence (XRF) testing is the method jewelers and refiners actually use to determine an item's exact metal composition non-destructively. For anything beyond casual curiosity — before a significant sale or purchase — this is the test worth paying for (often inexpensive or free at a refiner who wants your business), rather than relying on the at-home tests above alone.
Once You've Confirmed It's Real
If your piece checks out, the next question is usually what it's worth — our scrap gold calculator and jewelry value calculator estimate melt value at today's live gold price.